- The Celeste Series is produced as a face mounted mosaic. Instead of a mesh mounted sheet you will receive a sheet with a plastic film holding the tiles in place. The purpose of this new face mounted version is because it is ideal for installations in submerged areas such as pools, showers, bathtubs etc. The plastic film is to be removed only once the sheet has been installed and the thin set has been given adequate time to cure. We have tested several types of thinset and recommend the following:
Recommended Thinset LATICRETE: 254 Platinum
Movement joints are essential for the success of most tile installations. Install movement provisions according to the “2011 TCA Handbook For Ceramic, Glass and Stone Tile Installation” method EJ171-11. A flexible sealant, recommended for submerged applications, is required between the tile and all restraining abutments (i.e. the decking or coping), at all inside corners and directly over any joints in the concrete tank. In-field movement joints are required every 8’ on center in exterior applications or 20’ on center in interior applications. An architect or design professional should be consulted when specifying the exact number and location of each movement joint. There are a wide variety of flexible sealants available for use in tile installations. Each sealant product will vary in type, application and performance; consult the sealant manufacturer for specific recommendations and imitations.
To initiate the bond coat, use the flat side of a trowel and firmly apply thinset to the substrate.
To establish the proper depth of the setting bed, use a 3/16” x 1/4” v-notch trowel to apply additional thin-set and comb full notches in one direction.
Use the flat side of the trowel to flatten the notches and achieve a smooth, consistent thin-set setting bed.
Apply mosaic sheets to the thinset setting bed, tape side towards you, with light, even pressure. When joining sheets, be certain to adjust sheets so that grout lines are uniform. Periodically, check thinset for skinning (slight drying). If skinning occurs, remove thinset and reapply.
To achieve the flattest possible surface, lightly tap the sheets using light pressure with a grout float or a wooden beating block and a finish hammer. To unify sheet transitions, tap from one sheet to the next.
After the thinset has cured, slowly peel the face mounting tape from the tile starting from the corner. Use an angled downward movement.
3/16" or 1/4" square notch trowel should be used when installing our glass material and ridges should be smoothed down with the flat side of the trowel prior to fixing the tiles in the mortar bed. Tiles larger than 3x3 should be back-buttered with a thin continuous layer of the thin set applied with the flat side of the trowel.
Glass tiles are non-porous: the moisture in the setting materials cannot migrate through the glass and must evaporate slowly through the joints. All setting material, even rapidest mortars need a longer time to cure. Allow thin-set mortar to dry completely for a minimum of 72 hours prior to grouting or otherwise interfering with the fresh installation.
To speed up the drying process, we recommend cutting small slits in the plastic to facilitate air flow. Additionally, it is very important that the plastic be peeled off at a flat angle - do not grab an edge and pull straight up. Instead, peel it backwards while pressing down on the still covered side and slowly pulling back.
Use a glasscutter (score and snap) with a new diamond wheel for best results when cutting our glass tiles. Wetting the diamond wheel with oil before cutting will produce the smoothest cuts. In some cases it may be possible to use a wet-saw with a new, continuous rim diamond blade specifically designed for cutting glass. Do not use turbo or other notched blades designed for use with porcelain or ceramic as the teeth can cause a coarse cut, resulting in a heavily chipped edge. To cut angles without a wet saw or grinder, drill a small hole at the apex of the angle prior to cutting. In most cases, this will allow the use of a score and snap cutter and avoid small cracks that can happen at the angle. Cut edges and corners will be sharp. Always be sure to smooth the cut edges manually with a diamond hand pad or ceramic dressing stone.
If possible, drill holes before installing tile. Drilling from both sides can ensure a cleaner finish if the hole will be visible after installation. Using a new diamond coring bit (for large holes) or spade bit (for small holes) with a diamond tip made for glass drilling will give the best results. Lubricating the bit and tile surface with a continuous spray of oil/water mix will prolong the life of bits and provide a better-finished edge. When possible, the use of a jig will ensure precise placement of holes to be drilled.
When drilling holes for anchoring bolts, plumbing or any other dissimilar material always ensure a minimum of 1/8" clearance around the item is provided to avoid cracking due to disparate expansion and contraction rates or stress transfer.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
. For normal care and maintenance of glass tile, wiping the surface with a damp sponge or clothe with water or a light vinegar solution is sufficient. If stronger cleaning is needed, a nonabrasive, neutral pH cleaner can be used.
Glass tile may be damaged from impact with hard or heavy objects, which can lead to chipping or breakage causing sharp cutting edges that can lead to injuries. Always replace any damaged glass tiles immediately.